Big Sugar was Sweeter the Second Time Around

[Amy Warren, LMHC / WQ Mag Columnist]

On my first visit to Big Sugar after Pedro Flores, the former chef from The Table, took over as chef, my meal which included pasta with a brown butter sauce was one of the worst meals I've ever attempted to eat in a restaurant. The "sauce" was more like a curdled brown butter soup which was greasy enough to make me be glad I was near the hospital in case I needed a cardiologist. I couldn't believe anyone would let such a flawed and unattractive dish be delivered to a table. I'd eaten multiple good meals at Big Sugar and enjoyed the creativity of the menu, so I was further disappointed to learn the menu was going to get a complete make-over. I kept thinking to my self "If it ain't broke, why fix it?"

I was hesitant to return to Big Sugar after the initial experience with the new chef, but being in the neighborhood with an available al fresco table on a beautiful spring evening was enough to make me give the restaurant a second chance, and I'm glad I did. The new menu offers lots of exciting and innovative options with influences from Cuba, Venezuela, and the Bahamas. I was a little gun-shy after my last visit, so I only ordered an appetizer and salad. But the oysters stuffed with crab and manchego cheese secured my renewed allegiance with the first bite. Likewise, the chopped version of a Caeser salad with roasted garlic, manchego cheese and garbanzo spread was delightful.

The value of a second chance was reinforced by this visit to Big Sugar. It's important to give new chefs and new restaurants a chance to get their groove. And although we resist it, change can be good -- even when it means the loss of an old menu we loved. It's in the best interest to eat what each chef defines as his specialties, rather than ineptly trying to replicate the recipes the former chef espoused.

Now I look forward to returning to try all of the new inviting options on Big Sugar's menu. Prior to the closing of The Table, what used to be exceptional food became inconsistent. Only time will tell if dinners at Big Sugar are now consistently good, but I'll be back to see. Write in and let us know your experiences as well. And if anyone finds the new location of Big Sugar's former chef, let us know so we can support his new establishment, too.